Nintendo’s sensor bar was a pretty neat idea, but it has it’s drawbacks. Your wii has to be somewhat near the screen and you can’t use the wiimote more than about 12-15 feet from the sensor bar. Both of these are a problem for me, as I have a moderately sized room with a projector setup. Also due to the gigantic nature of my screen, I wanted the effective sensor area of the wiimote to be closer to the size of the screen.
The natural solution was to build my own sensor bar (or IR sources, really). Judging from the interested in DIY and 3rd party sensor bars I’ve been seeing, I think other people want to be cool like me and make their own. This guide will show you how.
A note on wall power vs battery power: I’ll be focusing on a wired solution for this guide. Batteries seem like a poor choice to me as they will run out in about 24 hours. How many times will you accidentally leave it on overnight? Nonetheless, you can still use a lot of information below to help you on a battery based build.
1. Sensor Bar Basics
The wii sensor bar is nothing more than two points of infrared light. The wiimote uses these two points of light to decide where it is pointing on the screen. It is fairly strait forward to make a couple sources of IR light, but there are some considerations to take into account.
- Will it run off batteries or wall power
- How far will you be from the sensor bar
Those questions will determine what parts you need to buy to build your sensor bar (I’ll refer to the sensor bar as “IR sources” from now on, as when you will be making is neither a sensor nor a bar).
2. IR Source Positioning
There is a common misconception that if you space your IR sources farther apart, the effective sensor area of your wiimote expands. Much to my disappointment, this is false. The spacing of your wii IR sources has little or no effect on the sensor area. Empirically what does matter is how far away you are from the IR sources. This leads me to speculate that wiimote only cares about the center point between the IR sources, and does not attempt to decide how close it is to the screen based on the spacing of the IR sources. Furthermore, it seems like the wiimote uses the angle of this virtual center point relative to itself to to decide where it’s pointing at. This would explain why if you are farther back from the sensor bar, you will have a larger sensor area. In the graphic there are 2 wiimotes, A and B, pointed at the top IR source (the blue dot). While both wiimotes are pointed at the same location, their angle to the virtual center of the two IR sources is different. Wiimote A is cos(y/2x) while wiimote B is cos(y/x). This means that wiimote A must point farther away from the center IR sources than wiimote B to get the same angle from it, and thus wiimote A has a larger sensor area.

This means that if you double your distance from the IR sources, you should double the effective sensor area for your wiimote.
If you want to keep it simple, just plan on spacing your IR sensors one foot apart on some sort of rigid mounting. Don’t place them any closer together than Nintendo already does with the stock sensor bar, it seems to cause cursor jitter.
If you want to get fancy and have totally separate IR sources, keep in mind that you don’t want them too far apart. In general I found your wiimote must be a bit more than 3 times farther away from the IR sources as the IR sources are away from each other. This of course means people sitting at an angle to the bar can sit close than those who are directly facing them. The space doesn’t seem to affect the maximum range. I have heard you can’t be 12 times farther away from the sources than the sources are apart from each other, but this tested false for me.
3. IR Sources
We’ll be using LED’s for our IR source. The first thing to determine is how many LEDs you need, how bright they need to be, and how wide their cone of light should be. I went with 696-OED-EL-1L2 which are 100 milliamp LEDS with a 60 degree cone of light. I used Octopart to find the best price on these, which was 27 cents each on Mouser. They might have a minimum order, I’m not sure. I spend 20 bucks on parts and it was about 5 dollars to ship.
One of the reasons the IR LED I used is so great is its angle of emission. At 60 degrees, these LEDs have one of the best emissions angles I have seen. I’ve heard that people who bought LEDs with narrow emission angles had trouble unless they sat directly in front of their IR sources. This is why I didn’t just get LEDs at radio shack - they don’t publish these kind of characteristics. In actually testing, I got more than 60 degrees; I actually measured the effective angle of these LEDs at about 90 degrees (45 degrees in each direction from the way the IR sources face).
As far as intensity goes, at first I thought I was going to need at least 5 LED’s on each IR source, like Nintendo does. It turns out that even 1 LED on each side was so bright it worked for the max distance I could easily test: 20 feet. The Nintendo bar craps out at around 15 feet, so this means that means these LED’s are significantly brighter than the multiple LED’s that Nintendo uses in their bars. I decided to go with 2 LED’s on each source, to be safe.
4. The Power Source and Circuit
You will most likely only need 1-3 LEDs. The easiest thing to do will be to power them in series with a spare AC adapter. The first step is to find an old AC adapter you can cannibalize. I found one that went to an old wireless router.
It is important to read the label to confirm it outputs at least 200ma (higher is OK too). You also have to make sure the adapter provides enough voltage for the circuit you will be building. When you find the right one, cut off the tip and strip the ends. Use a multimeter to determine positive and negative.
The circuit I’ll describe will have the left and right IR source in parallel with each other, but the LEDs on each source will be in series. Because both IR sources will be in parallel, they will have the same voltage, but of course they will split current between them.
Each of these LEDs takes 1.5 volts to power, so to run N LEDs on each side, you need at least N*1.5 volts from your power supply. You’ll also need a resistor in series with the LEDs, but its resistance depends on the number of LEDs you use and the voltage of your power source.
The math is simple. V = IR so R = V/I and so for N LEDs on each side the resistance of your resistors must be: (SourceVoltage-LEDVoltage) / 0.1 or (SourceVoltage-(N*1.5)) * 10
I had an adapter rated at 4.0-5.5 volts, and 2 LEDs. In my calculations I assumed the maximum voltage output to guard against overpowering the LEDs. This means I needed a resistance of (5.5-3.0) * 10 or 25 Ohms. I only had 47 ohm resistors, so I used two in parallel to create (effectively) a 23.5 Ohm resistor. In theory if the AC adapter put out maximum voltage it would fry my circuit, but in practice I was OK. Remember every resistor is rated to a certain wattage. The wattage going through a resistor is (voltage * current), or for the circuit described: (SourceVoltage-(N*1.5)) * 0.1. Note that resistors are commonly rated to 1/4 watt, but you can get higher wattage ones.
The circuit should look like:

I left it out for simplicity, but you should probably add a LED which emits in the visible spectrum so you know when this guy is on.
I suggest making your circuit on a breadboard first. I made mine on two so that I could test out the angles and distances before I built my first prototype. I used two different ones to play around with the spacing. Obviously most of the stuff in the picture is not related to the IR circuit. Note that IR LEDs are not visible to the human eye, but they are to cameras. If your cellphone can take pictures, use its view finder to see if the LEDs are powered. Remember LEDs can only be hooked up in one direction! The longer wire should be positive.
Once you have a good circuit, you can use some protoboard to build the left and right IR sources. Obviously after I took this picture I cut down the wires and soldered everything together in a somewhat clean fashion. This might not be the best protoboard size to pick, as there wasn’t any space on the board left to mount it to anything.
How you mount them is up to you. I used some cardboard to make some temporary stands. I’ll eventually put them into one discreet piece when I finish testing and find spacing I want. 