What Would Timothée Wear? – The New York Times

Few people have had a red carpet run like Timothée Chalamet, the actor known for his roles in “Dune,” “Call Me by Your Name” and the upcoming “Bones and All.”

And if you believe the numerous best-dressed lists and the hundreds of Instagram fan pages dedicated to documenting what he’s wearing, Mr. Chalamet, 26, is a style icon. Of course that comes with the help of a connected stylist (in 2021, he started working with stylist Erin Walsh, who also works with Anne Hathaway and Lana Condor) and a sprinkle of top designer endorsements (Louis Vuitton, for instance).

In the social media age, though, where a viral fashion moment makes a celebrity more bankable, red carpet moments matter — and Mr. Chalamet has had a few.

The latest? A custom red monochromatic look by Haider Ackerman. For the Venice Film Festival premiere of “Bones and All,” Mr. Chalamet wore a shimmering halter-top pantsuit with a matching skinny tie.

The look seemed to reflect the diminishing divide between men’s and women’s fashion. With strong tailoring on the bottom and soft swaths of red fabric forming a backless halter top, men could wear it and women could wear it. Maybe that’s why onlookers couldn’t stop talking about it.

Mr. Chalamet has a few more ensembles that seem to twist the Hollywood playbook of austere black-and-white tuxedos. At the 2022 Oscars, he wore a chest-baring cropped Louis Vuitton women’s wear jacket on the red carpet.

What men wear to the Oscars is often background chatter amid the sea of extravagant couture gowns, but his sequin and lace trimmed blazer and casual silver Cartier jewelry grabbed as many headlines as the next Armani Privé dress.

Like it or not, Mr. Chalamet’s eclectic approach grabs attention. In honor of closing out of fashion month, here are selected looks from the latest collections that might have the “Chalamet factor.”

The British designer Maximilian Davis’s debut for Salvatore Ferragamo was highly anticipated. The collection waged big on crisp tailoring and subtly seductive elements (a skin-baring red monochromatic outfit was a huge standout), but affinity for the color red aside, the clash of soft and hard was a duality seen before on Mr. Chalamet.

The iridescent pewter-colored one-shoulder top is a risky barely there moment, while classic black trousers grounds the whole look within men’s tailoring. Mr. Davis’s and Mr. Chalamet’s tastes seem quite aligned — down to the silver cuffs, another bit of gender fluidity.

The second installment of Matthieu Blazy’s vision as Bottega Veneta’s creative director melded the mundane (low-key denim and deceptive flannel shirts that were actually made out of leather) with refined ready-to-party glamour (fringe A-line dresses and embellished opera gloves).

But in the procession of men’s suiting that went down the runway, this shirt and pant pairing instantly summoned that aloof coolness of Mr. Chalamet’s look. There were oddball details that seemed a natural fit for Mr. Chalamet, like exaggerated cuffs and a high curved neckline, all paired with the sophisticated touch of Mr. Blazy.

While Burberry’s rescheduled show was the epilogue of the designer Riccardo Tisci’s tenure at the British house, the occasion wasn’t all gloom and sorrow. Among the standouts was a crinkly patent leather suit, which defined suiting in the loosest of terms. There were no sleeves on it, and the slightly flared pants ran counter to traditional slim-fit suit trousers.

The look broke the rules of suits that glide down red carpet premieres and big award shows, but that’s also why Mr. Chalamet would be the guy to pull it off.

Floral dresses are thin, but a floral suit? It might as well be as subversive as latex pants. True to form, Mr. Chalamet has already given the trend a test drive back in 2018 when he wore a moody floral suit by Alexander McQueen for the premiere of his film “Beautiful Boy” in London.

The natural progression to full floral-dom would be to head straight to the master of prints: the Belgian designer Dries Van Noten. Quirky suiting is where the actor shines, but tried-and-true fashion formulas don’t exactly apply here. Mr. Van Noten’s frenetic floral button-down and washed-out, baggy floral jeans were a bit of a curveball, especially considering the look was women’s wear and less structured.

Will the nude illusion ever die? Not if Mugler has anything to do with it. But others put the risqué detail on display this season, notably Acne Studios. Its embellished sheer overlay construction has had plenty of play in the women’s wear world, but this take on a summer pantsuit is quite refreshing and fitting for a future Cannes Film Festival red carpet.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin does not shy away from the sleaze — tiny hot pants and see-through tops are practically his insignia — but it’s not the cheap type that evokes cringe or shame. Mr. de Saint Sernon’s knack for embedding undercurrents of French glamour that feel both naughty and elegant yet minimal and effortless, was on full display within his spring-summer 2023 collection. This leather pants and sheer blouse combo was one of the more covered-up looks, but since an exposed chest has been Mr. Chalamet’s trademark, the seductive sleeve doesn’t seem too out there.

In the book of Mr. Chalamet sartorial highlights, the glittery harness he wore at the 2019 Golden Globes will forever be a tent pole moment. Designed by Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton, the embellished harness layered over a black poplin button-down and slim trousers was the look that spurred a thousand think pieces and Twitter replies.

The stylist and editor Ib Kamara was the creative director behind Off-White’s spring-summer 2023 show, the first Off-White collection since Mr. Abloh’s death in 2021. Mr. Abloh’s influence lingered on, as seen in this dramatic floor-length coat. An extreme turtleneck like this may make talking hard during interviews, but most people will be staring anyway.

A bit of a wild card here, but if anyone were to pull off JW Anderson’s pixelated streetwear fantasy, Mr. Chalamet would be on the shortlist. Loewe’s whimsical pieces are best worn with a side of humor and self-irony, which feels very Chalamet.

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